Krakow, Past and Present
A visit to Schindler’s Museum, Krakow
Churches, churches, everywhere! I’ve rarely seen so many churches in one place. And so many of them are huge. But even so, I was unprepared for the scale of the ultra modern Sanctuary of Divine Mercy in Lagiewniki. It is massive! I was very taken by the simple white interior which was highlighted in colour by the dappled light streaming through stained glass panels.
I have to say that the story of Saint Faustyna to whom the sanctuary is dedicated left me completely bewildered – especially when I saw the instruments of self-flagellation in her cell. After having been to Auschwitz-Birkenau and learned about the torture and murder of millions of innocent men, women and children, I just could not understand why anyone would willingly torture themselves. Mad stuff.
I focussed my attention instead on the amazing views from the top of the 77m high observation tower. Would you believe, I was able to make out the Tatra Mountains in the distance! Now, that brought back some great memories from our trip to Slovakia.
In complete contrast, we spent a fair bit of time exploring the Jewish quarter of Krakow, the Kazimierz. Several of the old synagogues are still standing, and though partly a little shabby, the market, shops, bars and restaurants were all buzzing. It certainly appears to be the ‘in’ place to be. The Jewish population, however, which was around 64,000 before the war, is now only in the hundreds.
The terrible fate of Krakow’s Jews is ever present, be it in the Ghetto Heroes Square where the installation of 70 oversized metal chairs commemorates the local Jews who were forced to gather there with the few belongings they could carry, before being sent to the death camps. Or in the New Jewish Cemetery where headstones list countless victims of the Holocaust. Or in Schindler’s Factory, made famous by the film ‘Schindler’s List’ directed by Steven Spielberg. Now a museum, the exhibition ‘Krakow under Nazi Occupation’ tells so much more than the story of the 1,200 Jews that the German industrialist managed to save from certain death.
What a harrowing exhibition, but definitely a must-see. I have to admit that I felt quite claustrophobic at times, especially when looking at the mock-ups of the walled-up ghetto, prison cells or cellars where heroic locals risked their own lives by hiding Jewish friends and neighbours.
After learning so much about these horrors of the past, I suppose I appreciated present day Krakow all the more. Our strolls along the River Vistula were always a pleasure, with roller-skaters and cyclists whizzing along the waterfront, whilst small groups gathered on the banks, enjoying the late autumn sun.
I loved the exciting modern architecture and colourful sculptures, and I particularly enjoyed our visit to a local flea market which was full of life and colour.
Yes, after delving into the dark and horrific past, stepping back out into modern Krakow was indeed a breath of fresh air.
