Next Port of Call: Porto
Autumn Break in Porto
The joys of travelling off-season! After having scored great deals on a hired car and a luxurious hotel close to the banks of the River Douro, the Oldies are living like kings in Porto. Pity their attire isn’t a touch more regal. You can’t have it all, I suppose.
My first impressions of Porto were mixed. The location is amazing, built as it is on a series of hills with dramatic drops down to the riverside, and the stunning architecture, both old and new, immediately caught my eye. The older parts of the city, however, are partly still shockingly dilapidated. Judging by the number of cranes in the city centre, there is plenty of restoration work in progress. But there’s plenty more still to be done.
We immediately set out for the old town centre. To get there, we had quite a long trek along the banks of the Douro, but no one minded the walk. It was an enchanting approach, passing under the spectacular Arrábida Bridge along the way, with views of the equally spectacular Luis I Bridge leading from Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia on the south bank. I was fascinated by the famous Porto terraces of houses along the old town walls at Muro dos Bacalhoeiros and Muro dos Cobertos da Ribeira. His Lordship loved them because they are so photogenic with their tiled facades, wrought iron balconies and granite archways. But I reckon they failed to fall into the ‘ideal homes’ category for Her Ladyship. Far too many stairs!
If it was up to me, I would just live directly on the riverbank. Lots of water, lots of boats and lots of great pickings thanks to the many restaurants and cafés. I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere at the riverside too, with people strolling around, setting off on boat trips, or simply drinking in the views. And drinking the odd glass or two of port as well, of course.
Now I thought the streets of Lisbon were steep, but the streets of Porto give them a run for their money. At least these aren’t cobbled in the notoriously slippery limestone used in Lisbon. We’re in granite country here, so there’s a lot better grip underfoot. I don’t think we’d have got Her Ladyship up those hills otherwise.
Knowing that His Lordship is a total sucker for everything to do with rail travel, I knew there would be no question of passing by the São Bento railway station. ‘Here we go again.’ I thought, ‘Another spot of trainspotting … yawn!’ But what a surprise! The trains themselves barely got a glance. The wonderful early 20th century tile panels in the foyer by the famous azulejo painter, Jorge Colaço, were the star of the show.
Yet another steep climb later, we had reached Porto Cathedral. The interior is currently undergoing renovation, so we just had a quick peek inside. I wasn’t heartbroken. I was quite content to enjoy the panoramic views across the city roofscape from the square outside.
From the cathedral, the Oldies found their way to the upper section of the Luis I Bridge. The lower section, way, way down below us, carries road traffic. The upper level is reserved for the metro and, funnily enough, pedestrians. With no barrier to keep pedestrians off the metro rails, it’s hilarious to watch tourists risking life and limb as they take photos. You often hear complaints about cities being overrun by tourists. Perhaps this is a subtle method of keeping down the numbers…
The death-defying stroll across the bridge was so worth it for the views of Porto from the opposite bank of the river. It was quite a while before the Oldies were able to drag themselves (and me) away and head down to the riverbank in Gaia, home of the world-famous port wine cellars. Astonishingly, they decided against the lazy option, the cable car, choosing instead to tackle the steep hill on foot.
Even more astonishingly, the Oldies were content to stroll up and down the riverside, enjoying the wonderful views of the of the old town centre, watching the river traffic, and taking in the port cellars – from the outside. Neither was inclined to start in on a port tasting tour. I bet we would still be there now if they had. Thank goodness they had worn themselves out from all the walking earlier and food was more of the essence.
Naturally enough, being in Portugal, the Oldies were spoilt for choice on the food front. His Lordship let me down this time though, eschewing his usual fish for the traditional Porto dish, Francesinha. This crazy looking meal, which apparently has French origins, is a croque monsieur on steroids. Basically a sandwich, it is stuffed with steak, ham and both fresh and cured sausages. It is covered with melted cheese for good measure, and served hot in a thick tomato and beer sauce. Finally, just to be sure you don’t go away hungry, it comes with a portion of French fries on the side.
It went down a treat, I can tell you, but it was not without its price. After His Lordship’s terrific calorific intake, Herself insisted he walk all the way back to the hotel.
