Getting into hot water

Getting into hot water

2016 ended with a bang. I most certainly did not enjoy those fireworks. But at least 2017 is getting off to a good start. Bags are being packed, maps unfolded and refolded. We are on the move again!

Well, this is interesting. Our destination is Héviz, a thermal spa town in Hungary, not far from the western end of Lake Balaton. Ok, it’s not by the sea, but there is plenty of water around. Both hot and cold, in fact.

Seamus the Seagull standing on fence in front of spa building on stilts in lake with glass frontage and two towers, steam rising from lake

Lake Héviz is the largest thermal lake in Europe. On our arrival, the air temperature was -7˚C and the temperature of the water an incredible +25˚C outside and 33˚C inside the spa building. In summer the lake is about 37˚C. That is way too hot for this Atlantic bird, but Her Ladyship, cold creature that she is, will love it I’m sure.

Seamus the Seagull standing on box in front of large Christmas tree with giant gingerbread decorations and chains with 'Heviz' on themBut before taking the plunge, the Oldies decided to explore Héviz first. There was still quite a Christmassy atmosphere around town and the stands selling mulled wine and Kürtőskalács (sweet spit cakes cooked over charcoal) were doing a roaring trade. I must say it is rather incongruous to see people strolling around town wrapped up warmly in winter coats, hats and gloves and carrying swim rings or shopping for swim wear!

Pedestrians in shopping street dressed in winter coats and hats, woman in foreground with swimming noodle on her rucksack    shop display of colourful ladies' swimsuits on mannequin torsos, woman in ski jacket and wool hat looking at them

His Lordship, though, had little interest in shopping. He was more focussed on the gastronomic fare that Héviz had to offer and appeared quite happy with his findings. There are plenty restaurants to choose from, and on top of the wealth of traditional Hungarian meat-based dishes, the proximity of Lake Balaton means that there is no shortage of fish dishes too. His Lordship is not the only happy camper in town. I’m practically drooling at the thought of tucking into the carp steaks I spotted on one menu. Mmmmmm!

Sign in spa, 2m - 38m, temperature: water in 33C, out 25C, air 27C, -7COn the way to the thermal lake, Herself confessed that she had cold feet about getting into the lake. Now, his Lordship’s English has come on by leaps and bounds since they first met over twenty years ago. The first time Her Ladyship told him that she was getting cold feet was shortly before their wedding. His response? ‘Why don’t you put on a pair of socks?’

 

Anyway, this time His Lordship understood her problem. Her Ladyship has quite a phobia of deep water and Lake Héviz is between 2m and 38m deep. It took quite a bit of persuading from Himself to get her to finally venture down the ladder into the lake. She needn’t have worried. The thermal water has a much higher buoyancy than a normal lake so she soon discovered that she could float around happily with minimal effort. And anything that involves minimal effort is always a hit with Her Ladyship. She took to it like a duck to water.

people swimming in thermal lake inside spa building, Hevis, HungaryAs I said, the water was far too hot for my liking, so while the Oldies were paddling around and enjoying the massage jets, I spent my time nosing (or should I say ‘beaking’) around the spa complex and observing the hardier humans swimming in the lake outside. Most seemed unfazed by the cooler temperatures, although I did see a few wearing woolly hats instead of bathing caps.

 

walkway on stilts over lake with white building in background, trees around lake, blue sky with clouds   people swimming in lake, white building and row of trees in background

Oh goody. Time to go. The Oldies are showered and changed and ready to head out for that slap-up meal we’ve all been looking forward to. I must say they are positively glowing. That thermal water must be good for you humans.

And Her Ladyship appears to have found the cure for her cold feet: getting into hot water.

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