The Baltic with a pinch of salt

10/08/2024 Seamus Comments 0 Comment

Suomenlinna and Kaunissaari islands, Helsinki

Seamus the Seagull standing on a wooden pier in front of a red metal bollard, fishing boat to left in harbour, more boats and buildings in background, Suomenlinna, Helsinki

I think I’ve done more island-hopping in Finland than I did in the Philippines. Then again, apparently there are over twenty times more islands here than in the Philippines – over 178,000 as opposed to 7,600. They are tiny here in comparison of course, but I don’t mind. Finnish islands are more my size.

Two seagulls standing on a large granite rock in the sea, Kaunissaari, Helsinki

Like this one. I wonder if it even qualifies as an island. It’s basically a large stone with just enough room for a couple of gulls. Does that make it a gullstone?

Of course, on small islands you can only land small boats, which was not to Her Ladyship’s liking at all, at all. I was in knots laughing as we waited for our ferry to Vallisaari. As she watched a boat arriving, she was already complaining that it was far too small. ‘I’m not getting into that thing!’ ‘No you’re not – because it’s not ours’, said His Lordship. An even smaller one approached. Still not ours. Then a smaller one still. By the time our ferry had arrived, Herself was quaking at the prospect of going to sea in a tiny tub.

Thankfully, even she realised that the Baltic Sea is reasonably calm as there are almost no currents or tides. It is relatively shallow into the bargain, and not even very salty. A far cry from the Atlantic Ocean or even the Irish Sea! We soon had Herself hopping on and off ferries like a local. Which is just as well, with all the wonderful island outing possibilities. Even the amazing Helsinki zoo (Korkeasaari Zoo) is on an island!

View across marina with colourful boats moored along pier, large redbrick building and tower amongst trees on land in background, Suomenlinna, Helsinki

Suomenlinna is one of the most popular tourist destinations and it’s easy to see why. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is actually a group of eight islands, several of which are fortified. The military forts are the star attraction of course, but I was very taken with the church. The bell tower doubles up as a lighthouse, reminiscent of the minaret/lighthouse in the mosque we visited in Melaka. It’s nice to see buildings like these being used for down to earth functions too!

Strolling around the island was a delight. Wonderful views all round! True to form, Her Ladyship had packed some provisions, so we managed an al fresco picnic on the rocks, in spite of being dive-bombed by the local gulls. Hmmm, I’m beginning to understand why gulls aren’t particularly loved around here!

View from headland across strait to island with fortifications, bridge, large building and tower amongst trees, heavy white clouds in sky above, Suomenlinna, Helsinki — View of Suomenlinna from Vallisaari

Apparently, those huge, multi-storey passenger ferries we saw back at the harbour sail through this extremely narrow strait between Suomenlinna and Vallisaari. I couldn’t fathom how they manage this. The water must be exceptionally deep here. And those ferry captains must run a very tight ship!

View of modern apartment blocks with marina in front, brown sauna boat in harbour in foreground, Helsinki

This was one small tub Her Ladyship said she wouldn’t mind boarding – a sauna boat. I know the Finns love their saunas, but this takes the biscuit! Luckily His Lordship managed to get her onto the boat he had actually booked – the ferry to a beautiful island called Kaunissaari, which, as it turns out, means ‘Beautiful Island’. Finns obviously believe in calling a spade a spade.

Seamus the Seagull standing on rocks at water's edge by the sea, Kaunissaari, Helsinki — Kaunnissaari, Beautiful Island

As is apparently the norm in Finland, the barbecue areas on the island were fully fitted out with practically everything you could possibly need – a proper brick fireplace with chimney, seating, firewood, matches, pots, pans, ash bucket, implements… and best of all, a roof over the whole area. Yep, it had started raining.

Seamus the Seagull standing on wall watching woman in blue raingear and hat sitting on bench in barbecue hut, cutting strips of wood with large knife, Kaunissaari, Helsinki

Our intrepid guide was soon expertly chopping kindling with her puukko knife and, in two shakes of a gull’s tail, lunch was sizzling away on the fire. Wonderful. Except that the humans had forgotten to bring any plates.

Seamus the Seagull standing on edge of long fireplace where wood fire is burning and sausages and other food is cooking over fire, pots and pans on opposite side of fire, Kaunissaari, Helsinki

Would you believe, His Lordship grabbed the axe (yes, of course there was an axe!) and proceeded to split the wood into perfectly flat sections. Hey presto, wooden plates! I have to admit I was seriously impressed. But for goodness sake, don’t tell him I told you!

Man with grey hair wearing blue shirt and black pants, standing in forest, chopping wood with axe on high wooden block, Kaunissaari, Helsinki

After lunch the rain cleared up and we spent a happy couple of hours strolling around the island, exploring the forests and enjoying free dessert – wild raspberries, bilberries and cranberries. Mmm! Some of the party even changed into bathing gear and braved the waves. Well, the calm, non-salty ripples. Not His Lordship though. It appears he’d had enough heroics for one day.