Šibenik, Primošten, Trogir, Dalmatian Coast

In between our numerous trips inland to the Krka National Park, we have been touring the Dalmatian coastline. And what a coastline it is. I have rarely seen a more picturesque location for a bus stop. I don’t think I would get very far in this part of the world if I had to rely on public transport. I’d be far too distracted by those incredible views to remember to keep an eye out for my bus!

Pretty Primošten is only about 30km from Šibenik. Her Ladyship was happy to be able to visit this island town without having to endure another boat trip, as Primošten is adjoined to the mainland. I loved the beaches here, and the Oldies were very taken by the famous Primošten vineyards just down the road at Kremik Bay. Set into the rock, with the dividing stone walls built in geometric patterns, they have become known as the “stone lace of Primošten”. Pretty and practical!

On another trip down the coast from Šibenik, His Lordship slammed on the brakes when he spotted this striking tower in a place by the name of Marina. Marina has a marina (and not a lot of imagination when it comes to the naming process by the looks of it), where Himself happily drooled over the luxury yachts moored there. Herself was more taken by the massive cranes in the boatyard. I thought we’d never manage to dig her out of it and move on to our ultimate destination, Trogir.

A visit to Trogir is a real step back in time. The historic centre is on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list and is a treasure trove of ancient architecture dating back 2,300 years, with Grecian, Roman and Venetian influences. How about that for an old town? I learn that typical houses here were three or four storey, with the ground floor used for storage and housing animals, and the kitchen located on the top floor. The thinking apparently being that, should the kitchen go on fire, only one storey would be destroyed rather than the entire house. I think I have just found the perfect house design for Her Ladyship.

You definitely need to leave yourself plenty of time in Trogir. There are just so many beautiful places to visit – churches, monasteries and palaces en masse. But I suppose that it is no surprise that my favourite spot was the top of the tower of Kamerlengo Castle. What a view!

The Oldies were quite happy to tarry up here too. Her Ladyship mesmerised by the goings-on in the shipyard across on Čiovo Island, His Lordship scanning the ancient buildings, the marine traffic and the islands in the distance. Trogir is just 6km from Split airport and we all instinctively ducked (well, I suppose I gulled) every time an airliner flew over at scarily low altitude. It was kind of weird seeing these ultra-modern aircraft overflying this ultra-ancient roofscape. A case of new meeting old. I hope they don’t meet too closely!

Back at the camp, the consensus is that after all the driving and walking, a cycle is in now order. A little outing on the bikes, the simplest thing in the world. What could go wrong? Well, when you’re with a pair of eejits, I mean, amateurs…

We set off from Solaris campsite, following the circular cycling route which leads along the coast from Zablaće, the length of St. Anthony’s Channel to Mandalina Marina, then back to the starting point.

With all the dry-stone walls around here, you could be forgiven for thinking that you were in the west of Ireland. Well, apart from the olive trees. And the vines. And the sun.

St. Nicholas’ Fortress, which protects the entrance to the channel, is most unusual. Built in the shape of an arrow head, it can only be entered from the sea. I hope they were giving out design awards back in the 16^th century. The Venetian military engineer behind this building would definitely have been up for a prize. In any event, the fortress has recently been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, which I hope means that it will be restored to its former glory before too long.

The coastal path is marvellous and the views just keep getting better and better as we climb to the highest point. It certainly gets pretty steep. We meet a Dutch cyclist en route who completely lost her nerve and turned back before reaching the highest point. I can see that Her Ladyship is glad that her years of living in Austria are paying off at last.

What a great spot for a picnic. If you had a picnic. Remind me to remind Her Ladyship next time to actually bring the sandwiches that she makes before we set off…

His Lordship has a great talent for getting punctures and he has a particular knack for getting them just when we are as far away from base as we can be. Our cycle now becomes a walk. Great. I don’t mind as it means that I have even more time to enjoy the wonderful views. Himself, though, is not so happy.

For a while the Oldies walk together, with Herself occasionally cycling ahead in order to figure out where we are. Once she has got her bearings, she leaves Himself behind and cycles back to the campsite, planning to stage a rescue mission.

Of course, by the time she has got back to back to the caravan, caught her breath, had a drink, changed her clothes, checked three times that she’d locked the caravan up properly, emptied the back of the car of the more voluminous junk, adjusted the driver’s seat and all the mirrors, negotiated her way carefully out of the campsite and turned the first corner, she almost runs down His Lordship, who by that time is only a couple of hundred metres away from home.

What a heroine!