Uncovering Ancient Paphos

Uncovering Ancient Paphos

Nea Paphos Archaeological site, Paphos District Archaeological Museum

Whilst we were in Larnaca, His Lordship must have mentioned the mosaics in Paphos about a million times. I had no idea what to expect, but it was clear that a visit to the mosaics would be the first thing on the agenda once we got there. Sure enough, the Oldies had barely set down their suitcases when they made a beeline for the Nea Paphos Archaeological Site.

White lighthouse on hill, large bushes in foreground, higher hills and dramatic cloudy sky in background, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site, Paphos, Cyprus

I was happy to see that the site is right beside the sea. The coastal views are beautiful, especially from this old lighthouse. But the Oldies didn’t linger long. There were those much talked-about mosaics and plenty more to be discovered.

Seamus the Seagull standing on restored mosaic floor, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site, Paphos, Cyprus

Wow! When I finally saw them, I was totally floored by those stunning ancient mosaic floors. I couldn’t believe that so many of them were out in the open, unprotected from the elements. Although I later learned that most of the mosaics had been uncovered, removed in their entirety, painstakingly restored, then returned to their original location and covered up again. 

Very ornate mosaic floor, raised railing and walkway all around it, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site, Paphos, Cyprus
House of Dionysius

The majority on display are to be found inside the restored Roman villas. The House of Dionysius alone is 2000 square metres, and over a quarter of that area is covered in stunning mosaic floors. I cannot imagine how long it must have taken to make – and later restore – these mosaics. That’s a lot of fiddling around with tiny, coloured, ceramic squares. Mind boggling in every sense.

Detail of ancient mosaic showing various figures with names in Greek script, Paphos, Cyprus
House of Aion

Ye gods! There’s no shortage of gods around here. It’s a veritable ‘Who’s Who’ of Greek and Roman mythology. I also loved the mosaics depicting everyday life, hunting scenes and various animals and birds. 

Ornate mosaic with circular flower like details all around central square panel with peacock in centre, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site, Paphos, Cyprus

This peacock has a lot to be proud of.

Ancient Roman amphitheatre, white lighthouse and two trees in background, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site, Paphos, Cyprus

The artistic and architectural skills of those ancient Greeks and Romans apparent in the various villas, the amphitheatre and other buildings was quite amazing. But I was almost equally impressed to see that they had already developed quite sophisticated drainage and water supply systems so long ago.

series of partially broken, interlocking clay pipes laid out amongst old walls, Nea Paphos Archaeological Site, Paphos, Cyprus

I wouldn’t be surprised if they worked better than some of the modern systems I’ve come across in my travels. Which wouldn’t be hard, mind you!

Seamus the Seagull standing in front of section of Grecian style pillar in front of front entrance of large building, Paphos District Archaeological Museum, Paphos, Cyprus

Their appetites truly whetted by these wondrous excavations, the Oldies also paid a visit to the Paphos District Archaeological Museum. As you know, my poor little birdbrain is allergic to information overloads. This museum, however, is well laid out, working chronologically through each historical period, with a small collection of artefacts for each. It was like walking through time, with a snapshot of daily life from each period.

Life-size outline drawing of man in glass case with clay pots shaped as body parts covering respective parts of body, Paphos District Archaeological Museum, Paphos, Cyprus

I was astounded to learn that Paphos was a famous medical centre back in the Roman period. In fact, an ancient clinic full of medical instruments was discovered here. For me, the pièce de résistance was this set of 2,000 year old clay bottles, each shaped for a particular body part. Apparently, they were filled with hot water or oil and applied to the part in question to relieve aches and pains. Those ancient Romans certainly thought of everything!

Stunning statuary, gorgeous gold jewellery, contemporary coinage, glorious glassware … I don’t know whether I was more amazed by the artistic skills employed to make them, or simply the fact that they had survived this length time!

Ancient restored clay pot with handle, jug and plate decorated with lines, circles, bird, Paphos District Archaeological Museum, Paphos, Cyprus

I was potty about these wonderful clay pots. And it was so good to see that birdlife was already considered important hundreds, even thousands of years ago. Proper order! 

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