Spying Bratislava
Socialist Architecture in Bratislava
After our visit to the panalák, the Oldies were hooked. They spent the next couple of days searching out more Socialist Modernist architecture. They didn’t have to search too hard. Bratislava is full of it! Some of the buildings were real gems; others were so ugly they were actually quite charming. In an ugly sort of way.
There were plenty of ‘ugly ducklings’ around the Námestie Kamenné, Stone Square, that’s for sure. But I did like the sleek white stone facade of the Prior Department Store – probably because it reminded me of the cliffs of Dover. I was amazed to hear that about 40,000 people turned up for its grand opening in 1968. I know humans can get very excited about shopping, but that’s taking it a bit far altogether. Then again, in communist Czechoslovakia at the time, it must have been quite a coup to be able to nab the latest in black and white television sets or other such mod cons. Even if you had to queue up for hours for the privilege.
I got a shiver through my feathers when I saw poor old Hotel Kyjev nearby. Now there’s a building that has seen better days. Although, when I come to think of it, I’m not sure if I’d have wanted to see its ‘better days’, with its KGB office and, supposedly, bullet holes in the door of room 1212…
Oh, and before you ask, yes, I’ve checked. There is a Hotel Bratislava in Kiev.
I was beginning to realise at this stage that size definitely mattered to the communist architects. In fact, I was beginning to wonder if that was all that mattered, until I saw the amazing Fontána Družby, the Fountain of Union, in the centre of Námestie Slobody, Freedom Square. I’m not normally the ‘flowery’ type, but something about this giant steel flower appealed to me. In a big way. Would you believe, it is 9 metres high and weighs 12 tonnes! I’m definitely not its only admirer either. After having been neglected for years, it looks like big money is now being spent on giving it a complete overhaul.
Many of the buildings around Freedom Square are also classics of the communist era. As the Oldies were admiring the mosaics on the exterior of the Slovak Technical University, I was busy trying to make out the ‘academic graffiti’ in the car park. It’s apparently traditional for the graduates to paint their names with their new titles on the ground outside the college. I suppose it’s not much worse than the Portuguese freshmen who litter Porto with their painted tin cans at the Latada Parade. What a messy lot you human academics can be!
The Ministry of Transport and Construction building, another Socialist Modernist gem, certainly looked like it was built to last. Well, it should, shouldn’t it?
The most striking Socialist Modernist building by far, however, has got to be the Slovenský Rozhlas, the Slovak Radio Building. I had seen a similar pyramid in Tirana, but here, everything was turned on its head. Literally. What a phenomenal architecture! In fact, I noticed a plaque on the wall stating that it had won the ‘Building of the Century’ award in 2000. Although I’m not sure whether that was a genuine accolade or simply a reference to the fact that it took over a quarter of a century to build!
I was amazed to see that the ‘Pyramid’, which was finished in 1983, still retains much of its original 1980s décor. It was like stepping back in time. In fact, I couldn’t help feeling like a character in a cold war thriller as we poked around inside, half-expecting to be slung out any moment.
Seamus the Spy… I quite like the sound of that!
Outside, I noticed that there was some work in progress on the exterior of the building. I was totally mesmerised, watching this workman dangling on a rope from the L of ‘SLOVENSKÝ’.
Wow, that looked like one ‘ell of a job!
