Wonderful Wachau

19/06/2021 Seamus Comments 0 Comment

Visit to the Wachau Valley

Great! We are back on the road again. Or to be precise, the river. The Oldies have finally packed up the caravan and headed to a campsite directly on the Danube. We are staying in Stein which is not the most beautiful of names but it is certainly a beautiful place. I can’t believe the view from the campsite. For once, my eyes are dragged away from the water, up to the stunning Göttweig Abbey perched on the top of a hill directly across from our pitch.

How His Lordship managed to persuade Herself to get on her bike, I don’t know, but before I know what has hit me, we were whizzing through the vineyards and apricot orchards, heading for Dürnstein. This is apparently one of the highlights of the Wachau valley and I soon saw why. What a beautiful village, and what idyllic surroundings!

Old town with large church with blue spire on river's edge with steep hill behind, ruin on castle near top of hill. Dürnstein, Wachau Valley, Austria

The ancient, cobblestoned streets are so narrow that no cycling is allowed in town, so the Oldies parked their bikes down at the riverside. Gosh, wasn’t it nice and thoughtful of the locals to supply giant pints of Guinness down there?

Seamus the Seagull standing on bollard painted black with wide band of white near the top, stone wall and climbing plant in background. Wachau Valley, Austria

Her Ladyship looked quite relieved to dismount and she staggered, bowlegged through the steep, narrow streets. Some of them were even a bit of a tight fit for His Lordship! Most of the buildings are beautifully restored and, at this time of the year, festooned in climbing roses and window boxes ablaze with colour. I was just thinking how lovely one particular villa was, when I spotted a sign announcing that it was the former residence of the local chief executioner. What a reminder that those pretty facades can hide a dark and dismal past! Give me the 21^st century any day. But then again, here’s a great mix of the old and new: a medieval ATM!

ATM machine set into door of medieval building, cobblestoned road in foreground, Dürnstein, Wachau Valley, Austria

One can be forgiven for assuming that a river valley might be quite flat but I was astounded how steep the hills are here. I was even more astounded to see that the Oldies still had the energy to climb up the hill behind the village to take a look at the ruin of Schloss Dürnstein. I hadn’t realised that Richard the Lionheart had been imprisoned in this very castle back in the 12^th century.

Cut out figures of the characters of Robin Hood and Richard the Lionheart with information board in front, Seamus the Seagull between the two figures, tree and wall behind, Dürnstein Castle, Wachau Valley, Austria

I’m a bit hazy on the history of this famous English king. Ok I’ll admit, I knew nothing about him at all, but at least his name rang a bell with me. Like Skanderbeg, he’s been the subject of many books and films and I was chuffed to get a chance to pose with none other than Sean Connery who played King Richard in one of these movies. Hah, I bet Her Ladyship was mad jealous of me!

Later, His Lordship suggested cycling back to base on the other side of the Danube, to which Herself agreed. That was before it dawned on her that it involved actually getting to the other side first, i.e. taking a ferry. I was highly amused by her expression when she realised what she had let herself in for. I was even more amused by the method of calling the ferry. You have to ‘knock the bell’ (hammer provided) to alert the ferryman on the opposite side of the river to come and get you, bike and all.

Pier on river with small wooden boat with outboard motor docked to the right, yellow item with hammer on chain and sign above reading 'Bitte läuten Knock the Bell, bank of river on far side in the background, Wachau Valley, Austria

Over the next few days, we continued to explore the Wachau valley, a treasure trove of natural beauty and fascinating history and culture. The life-blood of the region, the Danube itself is beautiful yet, of course, at times destructive. I noticed how much effort and investment has gone into protecting roads and villages from flooding. There, you see: open the floodgates and there’s nothing but trouble!

View of opening in flood barrier in front of wide river. Man below on nearside river edge taking photograph, trees in background on other side of the river, Wachau Valley, Austria

In the Wachau, it is easy to feel like the king of the castle. But which one? Around here, it’s a case of pick a castle, any castle. The ancient ruin of Hinterhaus high above the beautiful village of Spitz, for example.

Seamus the Seagull on stone wall in front of vineyard with ruin of ancient stone castle in background, Ruine Hinterhaus, Wachau Valley, Austria

Or the immaculate Schönbühel Castle, directly on the river’s edge.

Seamus the Seagull standing on stone in riverbank in front of large castle with several towers, hills in background, Schönbühel Castle, Wachau Valley, Austria

This area is littered with castles. It’s like a Disneyland for grownups!

We also visited the tiny village of St. Michael with its ancient fortified church, and of course, Willendorf, famous for a hugely important archaeological discovery, the Venus of Willendorf. Apart from the museum, you can visit the actual site where this approximately 30,000 year-old, 11cm high figurine was found back in 1908. Mmmm, I would never have thought that an ancient, chunky little woman could cause such a worldwide sensation.