Kapfenstein Geo Trail Walk

Having survived the walk around the Gleichenberg volcano without starving to death, Her Ladyship was game to join Himself on yet another volcano walk a few days later. The Featherless Fossils were on a roll!

The walk this time was the Geo-Trail on the Kapfenstein volcano. On our approach, I could already see that village itself was pretty as a picture. The wonderful views from Kapfenstein church at the start of the trail alone were worth the trip, stretching across the vineyards into Slovenia, about 10 km in the distance.  

His Lordship pointed out the Winkler-Hermaden winery in the village, one of the more famous producers of excellent wines in the Vulkanland region. I had no idea that the volcanic activity which had such an impact on the topography, soil and the microclimate of the area, has created ideal conditions for producing top quality wines today. Which goes to prove that all good things really do come to those who wait. Even if you have to wait a couple of million years…

The views were even better from the grounds of Kapfenstein Castle, further up the hill. What a location! The walk led around the top of the volcano, giving us more fantastic views of Straden and the Gleichenberg volcanoes. I could even spot the outstanding Riegersburg Castle in the distance, standing out on the top of its almost 500m high pillar of volcanic rock.

Like Straden, Kapfenstein is a baby – in volcanic terms. It also dates from the second phase of volcanic activity in the region, just two million years ago. In Kapfenstein, however, you get two volcanoes for the price of one. The first volcano eventually cooled and became extinct. Pressure built up again and there was a new eruption at a different spot, creating a new crater. Sure enough, I could clearly see the new layers of fall-out on top of the older ones. Wow, once you know what to look for, you really can read the landscape like a book. An extremely long history book.

It was a little frightening at one point to realise that we were actually standing on the volcanic vent itself. Here, magma would have hit the ground water at a ridiculous 1,200⁰C or more, turning it instantly into steam – with explosive effect. Right, so we were basically standing on what was once a giant pressure cooker. ‘Yikes! I thought. ‘Time to get out of here before this goose is cooked!’

I relaxed, however, further up the hill when we reached the beautiful Herz-Jesu Kapelle, Sacred Heart of Jesus Chapel, set in the middle of the vineyards. In these tranquil surroundings with beautiful panoramic views it was easy to forget the violent and fiery past of the region.

As we rounded the hill and approached the castle from behind, I noticed several couples and families digging into delicious looking meals at picnic tables which were dotted around the vineyards. Where did all that lovely grub come from?

And then the penny dropped. The castle restaurant is closed at the moment of course, but the enterprising owners, the Winkler-Hermaden winery, are offering a range of gourmet picnics with all the trimmings. Yes, with proper cloth tablecloths, tableware, silverware, decent wine glasses, wine of course… the works. Aaargh! Of course the Oldies hadn’t done their homework and had no idea that these super lunch baskets were available – on pre-order. So we had to settle for a couple of home-made sandwiches and a bottle of water. No posh picnic for us!

But I have to admit that even a poxy picnic isn’t bad in these gorgeous surroundings.

On our way back down the hill, we came across yet another spot where the layers of lava were clearly visible. My poor little bird brain was boggled at this stage by all the data on the information boards along the way. Certain facts about the actual eruptions did stick in my mind however. They certainly paint a picture of the enormity of the impact they had.

Although each volcanic eruption lasted only one to three hours, the volcanic clouds were between 1,000m and 5,000m high. A mind-blowing 500,000 cubic meters of material shot into the atmosphere with each eruption. And, just imagine, it would apparently take about 100,000 trucks to cart away the material from a single layer. That would be a convoy stretching from here to Munich and back. Mother Nature sure is one powerful mother!

But what hit home with me the most was the final sentence which casually noted that ‘Kapfenstein probably last erupted over a million years ago, but nobody can guarantee that it won’t erupt again someday.’

That was my cue to take a hike!