Green Heart of Slovenia

Green Heart of Slovenia

Bohinj Lake and Vintgar Gorge Walks

As I’ve said before, everything’s small in Slovenia. Even its highest mountain doesn’t quite manage to hit the 3000m mark. But the Triglav (“Three Heads”), 136m short of the 3000m, has quite a presence. It’s a three headed monster that dominates the whole area. When its heads aren’t in the clouds, of course.

Building with pitched roof in foreground on right, forest behind and high mountain with three peaks in background, Mount Triglav seen from Bohinj, Slovenia

We got this fantastic view of the Triglav from Lake Bohinj, Slovenia’s largest lake. With a circumference of 12.5 km, it certainly doesn’t break any world records. It’s still twice the size of Lake Bled, mind you. These Slovenian lakes are probably mere puddles on a world scale, but once again, it’s a case of “small is beautiful”. Manageable too. It’s not often that the Oldies can even contemplate tackling anything that falls into the “tallest, longest, biggest…” categories, but even they managed to complete the walk around Lake Bohinj.

Large statue of chamois on boulder with lake surrounded by mountains behind, blue sky above, Zlatarog, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

The first thing we saw along the way was the “Zlatorog” statue, the legendary Goldhorn, the white chamois buck of Triglav. The Oldies insisted on going over to have a good look at him, but I was glad when we finally moved on. To me, he’s far too big and far too intimidating. I prefer my “Zlatorog” in miniature. Preferably on the side of a glass of cool Laško beer.

Seamus the Seagull standing on shore of lake, man paddling kajak away from shore, mountains and forest in background, blue sky above, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

The water in the lake has to be seen to be believed. It’s crystal clear round the edges, turning an ever deeper shade of green toward the depths. It was so tempting to take a dip! I sure envied all those inflatable ducks, swans and flamingos bobbing about happily near the many beaches. Coming from Ireland with its forty shades of green, I am well used to green fields and green hills, but I hadn’t expected so many shades of green in Slovenia’s inland waters. It’s no wonder I’ve been hearing mention of the “green heart of Slovenia” so often.

Seamus the Seagull on right in foreground standing on rock, deep pool of water below, rock face in background, Vintgar Gorge, Slovenia

The Dynamic Duo managed another short, but stunningly beautiful walk a couple of days later in the shape of the Vintgar Gorge walk. That was yet another one of those wonderful Slovenian surprises. The gorge walk itself is just magic. I was mesmerised as we made our way along the board walk beside the roaring waters of the Radovna river, which at times falls into the most gorgeous deep pools. The Oldies had to hold me back. I just wanted to dive straight in, especially when I saw all the fish – so clearly visible and so tantalisingly close!

Heart shaped hole filled with water in rock face, waterfall running into it, Vintgar Gorge, Slovenia

I was gobsmacked by Slap Šum, the waterfall at the end of the gorge. I thought I was seeing things at first, but sure enough, there really is a heart-shaped hole in the rock. I love Slovenia!

Seamus the Seagull standing on cut tree trunk with pint of beer beside him, wooden deckchair with Lasko beer logo and picture of horned chamois on green background in the seat of the deckchair

The route took us away from the water and through the forest, but I couldn’t complain when we reached the church at the top of the hill. What a spot, great views and great beer! It doesn’t get much better than this. The walk back along the ridge to the start of the gorge walk in Podhom was just the perfect end to a perfect outing.

Seamus the Seagull on wooden bench looking towards narrow foot path through forest, mountains in background, Vintgar Gorge walk, Slovenia

There’s no doubt about it. This small country is full of big surprises.

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