Outing to Saint Naum Monastery, North Macedonia

Can a seagull not get a bit of peace at all? Here we are on a small, quiet campsite by the lake, well outside the city of Pogradec. On the nearby potholed dirt track they laughingly call a road there‘s hardly any traffic. What traffic there is crawls by so slowly that it barely registers on the decibel scale. But what do I have to put up with? Bloody peacocks of all things, shouting their heads off! If I could just track those characters down, I’d give them a piece of my mind, that’s for sure.

I was fuzzy-headed enough this morning after enduring that racket half the night. The last thing I needed was to be stuffed into Her Ladyship’s rucksack and bounced along that appalling road on a bicycle. The Dynamic Duo had decided to cycle over to North Macedonia, God help us all. Thank goodness it isn’t far. At least the ride to the border woke me up and, to be honest, I was quite curious to see how the crossing would go.

A Greek family in a car in front of us got a terrible grilling altogether. They had to present what looked like a mountain of paperwork before they were finally allowed through. The Oldies’ border crossing, on the other hand, was quick and painless. Well, I suppose even the toughest of customs officers could spot at a glance that neither of them was smuggling anything – other than fat bits – under all that Lycra. Not a pretty sight, I can assure you. No wonder they were waved through in double-quick time!

I had to laugh at this sign on the North Macedonian side warning that the road is only 5m wide. After some of the ones we’d had to negotiate in Albania, a 5m wide road, a pothole-free one into the bargain, was a dream! The difference between the two countries was striking. As soon as we left Albania I already noticed how lush and green the Macedonian countryside was in comparison. The lake is so much cleaner looking on this side too, and what a relief it was not to see piles of rubbish dumped everywhere. Even the air smells better here. It’s a different world!

The Oldies’ goal that day was the famous Saint Naum Monastery. Those medieval saints sure knew how to pick their spots. This wonderful complex could hardly be in a more beautiful setting. I was glad to see that no vehicular traffic was allowed by the lakeside, let alone near the monastery. In fact, many visitors arrived by ferry or water taxi from the town of Ohrid across the lake. This meant that, in spite of the crowds, it was a wonderfully peaceful spot… Until I found the culprits! Those noisy peacocks live right here in the monastery. Would you believe it, they are so loud I could hear them in the next country!

I don’t, but North Macedonians do – love their peacocks. They even feature on the local coins and banknotes, for goodness sake. The Oldies discovered that the peacock symbolises a craving for Christian religion, mental peace and tranquility. Peace and tranquility! What a joke! I was about to say as much to those pompous peacocks, but then I saw them up close. Those are seriously big birds, especially when they get their tails up. I decided it was best to let them just get on with it after all. Sure, I still have my noise-cancelling headphones, somewhere …

At least I got some peace and tranquility inside the central church of the monastery complex, the church of the Holy Archangels, which is simply beautiful. I was amused to see several visitors putting their ears to the tomb of Saint Naum itself, apparently listening for his heartbeat! The so-called heartbeat is actually the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks below the church. I suppose it’s like when you humans hear the sea when you hold a seashell to your ears. What a gullible lot you are!

The highlight of this outing was our boat trip out onto the Black Drin Springs. As we were gently rowed over the crystal clear water, I was mesmerised by the sight of the waters bubbling up from the riverbed. What an incredible phenomenon this is, basically a lake feeding a lake via a mountain. Water from Lake Prespa flows into the Black Drin through the Galicica Mountain and rises up here in the springs which ultimately feed Lake Ohrid. Watching the changing colours of the water in these beautiful surroundings is an experience I am unlikely ever to forget.

In among the lovely wooden restaurants built on stilts over the springs, I came across a stall selling Ohrid pearls. This is no tourist tat. Ohrid pearl jewellery is famous world-wide and has been worn by royalty. A fascinating video explained that these pearls are hand-made using a technique whereby shell and mother of pearl are worked into a paste mixed with an emulsion. The ‘recipe’ is a secret, but I did glean that it includes scales from a fish only found in Lake Ohrid. … Mmmm… Whatever about wearing these pearls, they certainly sound good enough to eat!

Later that evening, the Oldies cracked out three beers to celebrate three years on the road. I certainly have reason to celebrate. I am as proud as a pea… , proud as punch to have survived three years travelling with the Wingless Wonders. I certainly deserve that beer!

And it might even help me get some sleep.