Dalmatian Gems

25/05/2019 Seamus Comments 0 Comment

Outings to Omiš and Makarska

Calm sea in foreground with stone pier and town on headland in background bathed in golden light, dark clouds with patch of blue sky above, Strobrec, Croatia — Stobreč sunset

The trials and tribulations of our journey are soon forgotten as we settle into our base in Stobreč, just south of Split. After our mountain crossing, I am so happy to be back by the sea again! The sunsets are simply marvellous here and I am only too delighted when the Oldies set off to explore the coastline further south.

Traffic comes to a standstill in Omiš, so we stand still there. Sure, it’s as good a place to explore as any! The location of this pretty coastal town is quite something. The backdrop of sheer rock dwarfing the apartment blocks, the Cetina River emerging from a deep canyon and bisecting the town as it flows into the sea, the harbour wall along the bay, the beachfront stretching as far as the mouth of the river, the magnificent sea views beyond.

View of town on either side of river, bridge spanning river on right, sea on left, high mountains towering above buildings in background, Omis, Croatia

I hear that Omiš has a history as a pirate town. It made a perfect lookout for spotting passing ships laden with goods, and after making their attack, the pirates could retreat back into the safety of the canyon. It looks to me that nowadays the main threat in Omiš is traffic. To be fair, its location makes it quite a bottleneck. There are obviously plans to build tunnels through each side of the gorge, with, I assume, a bridge in between. I spotted a tunnel exit high up on one side of the gorge, leading into … fresh air. For the moment at least, it looks like it’s for the birds!

View from above of town with houses and church on left, red tiled roofs, town square near church with people sitting outside under marquises, parasols, Omis, Croatia

Her Ladyship said that, after the travelling, she was anxious to get some exercise. Well, she certainly got her wish when we climbed up to the Peovica Fortress. That is one steep climb, but the views over town are worth it. Especially when, like me, you get carried up in a rucksack!

On our way back down in to town again, Herself was amused by this self-service tasting table outside a liquor store next to a church. That’s definitely not a sight you’d ever be likely to see in Ireland. Silly woman, she was so amused by it all, she forgot to actually taste the drinks!

white plastic table with three bottles of alcoholic drinks, stack of white plastic cups on their side in front and table with wafer biscuits, stone wall in background — Tasting table

It was pleasant to meander through the narrow streets in the old town, but I was happiest pottering along the harbour wall looking at all the boats. Wonderful!

stern of white and brown boat to left with white rope running from left to right, brow of yellow boat on right, name painted on front: TORNADO SPLIT, blue sea between

What a funny name for a ship. Personally, I’d have called it ‘Banana’. Well, it’s yellow, isn’t it?

Seamus the Seagull looking out from inside forest down on high mountain with river in front far below, sea and headlands in background — A bird’s eye view of Omiš

His Lordship spotted a road up snaking up the mountain above the north side of Cetina River and, of course, had to check it out. The views of Omiš from up there were quite magnificent, I have to admit. As we continued further into the mountains, the road basically ran along the edge of a deep gorge, with villages hugging the mountainsides. Whoever built this road either had no room or no money to add a barrier or kerb. Either way, Her Ladyship was constantly freaking out about the sheer drop at the edge of the road. Each time His Lordship pulled over to take photos, she nearly had kittens. Marvellous fun!

I thought I’d seen deep gorges – until we reached Zadvarje in the Biokovo Nature Park. This one beat them all, the scenery here is absolutely stunning. I can imagine it’s not unlike the Grand Canyon, just a lot greener.

Man standing on flight of concrete steps leading down side of hill, taking photograph, deep gorge covered in lush vegetation, steep cliffs to right, high mountains in background, Biokovo Nature Park, Croatia

The Oldies descended the 311 steps (of course they counted them, the show-offs!) to the hydropower station and were still nowhere near the bottom. When we drove on, we found ourselves snaking our way back down to the Cetina River, past the charmingly named village of Slime, slowly winding our way back to the coast again at Omiš.

Road sign on two posts, yellow background with black writing: SLIME, bullet hole in sign at top to left of the S, road and vegetation in background

One of my favourite beauty spots along this stretch was Makarska. This idyllic port town is just what you imagine when you think of the Dalmation coast: the sea a blue mirror, fishing boats and yachts puttering around the harbour, and ferries setting out for the islands in the distance. A little bit of heaven!

Seamus the Seagull standing on white stone wall looking to left, sea in foreground and town at foot of high mountain range in background, cloudy skies above mountains, Makarska, Croatia

The Oldies spent a happy few hours clambering along the headlands admiring the views with Yours Truly equally happy to tag along. The beaches here are wonderful, the water crystal clear. And with trees like these, who needs a parasol?

beach by calm sea, mountain in background, pine trees on beach leaning at steep angles towards water, Makarska, Croatia

For all their talk of healthy living and getting plenty of exercise, the Wingless Wonders are a pair of wimps when it comes to swimming. Just because the sea was a little on the cool side, Her Ladyship only ventured in knee-deep. And don’t talk to me about His Lordship. He didn’t risk as much as getting a toenail wet! But it can’t be said that he eschewed all sports. He did have a go at pole dancing, God help us all.