Staring at the sea in Terceira
Around the coast of Terceira, Azores
My first impression of Terceira? It’s the west of Ireland on steroids! The dry stone walls outlining tiny green fields, the dramatic coastline, the steep cliffs, the mist covered hills, the brightly coloured houses, the white horses out on the wild Atlantic, the weather for goodness sake! As His Lordship says, this rain and sunshine is a real recipe for rainbows. And sure enough, I must have spotted a half a dozen in the first two hours alone. Yes, a super-concentrated version of the west of Ireland. Apart, of course, from the lava, the cacti and the bananas.
The Dynamic Duo had decided on Angra do Heroísmo as a base. Not a bad choice, especially with our idyllic setting directly above the marina with views of Monte Brasil, an extinct volcano, to our right, the star fort on the headland to our left, and the beautiful Cabras Islets, just off the coast.
I was amazed to hear that Angra was once the capital of Portugal. The number of impressive churches, monasteries, convents and civic buildings are indications of its former importance. With its strategic location, I suppose it must have had an important role to play in the age of discoveries too. Sure, I even spotted Her Ladyship’s old friend, Vasco da Gama, strolling around town.
When we climbed up the hill above town, I was amused by the Obelisco da Memória, a monument which resembles an upside down ice cream cone. It reminded me of the ‘cone’ on the top of Killiney Hill in Dublin. Like its Irish cousin, it has some pretty spectacular views too.
When Himself asked what Her Ladyship wanted to do first, I’m sure he knew the answer before she even opened her mouth. Drive along the coast. She also added that at some point, she’d just like to find a nice spot where she could simply sit and stare out at the ocean. Now, there’s a woman after my own heart!
One of our very first stops fitted the bill nicely. I just loved the way the road at Ponta do Queimado led straight down to the sea. Next stop, nowhere! What a perfect spot to sit and stare at the ocean. Though, with those sharp lava rocks all over the place, we all chose to stand rather than sit.
As we travelled along the coast we came to several miradouros, viewing points, so there was ample opportunity to stare further. Near the Miradouro do Raminho we came across a whale watch tower, dating from 1950. We were obviously not the only ones making it their business to stare out to sea.
At Santa Barbara, not far west of Angra, we came across an amazing picnic area directly on top of a cliff, with lava rock benches and barbecues supplied with chopped firewood. Talk about a barbecue with a view. If only we’d thought to bring a few fish or some juicy steaks with us!
One of my favourite spots on the whole island was Ponta dos Biscoitos, where several lava pools are filled by the waves. Some man-made platforms and steps make access easier, but otherwise these are natural pools. The Oldies being a right pair of wimps… sorry, the spring weather being rather on the nippy side, the Oldies decided against going for a dip, but we all sat happily on the steps and stared at the waves for what seemed like hours on end. When the wimpy Wingless Wonders were finally able to drag themselves – and yours truly – away, they drove just a few kilometres up the road and climbed up Pico Matias Simão. This is a crazily steep clifftop with the most amazing views in all directions –inland across the fields, up to the mist covered mountains at the centre of the island, along the dramatic coastline and, of course, out across the ocean. Yet more staring out to sea was in order, although with a careful eye on the sheer drop from the cliff edge.
A banana plantation captured the Wingless Wonders’ attention at Baia de Salga, east of Angra. They were as much fascinated by the high hedges acting as windbreaks around the planation as by the trees themselves. When I finally managed to drag them away from the bananas, we were treated to yet another wonderful stretch of coast, and our walk along the Ponta das Contendas was the highlight of that day. At one point, we nearly lost Her Ladyship in a strong gust of wind, but believe me, it was worth it!
Praia da Vitória boasts real sandy beaches, so I can imagine it must be a popular spot in summer. It was still in sleepy off-season mode when we were there however, and we were able to enjoy a leisurely poke about town. At one point, the Oldies ended up in the Church of Senhor Santo Cristo das Misericórdias, where a friendly local chap gave them an impromptu guided tour. I’m not much good on facts and dates, but I do remember one story he told us. Once, as a child, he was playing next to a church near his house when his mother called him in for a meal, so he reluctantly went home. Just a short time later, the island was struck by an earthquake and when the family ran out of the house, he saw that the church spire had fallen onto the exact spot he had been playing earlier. It was 1st January 1980. Ah, I’m not so bad at remembering dates after all. I bet our guide is unlikely to forget that date either!
Monumento do Imaculado Coração de Maria is a bit of a mouthful, but it certainly gives you an eyeful. This monument situated high above Praia da Vitória gives the most amazing views of the town, the surrounding countryside and, of course, the ocean as far as the eye can see.
We eventually arrived back at Lajes Airport where we had landed. I was quite shocked at the ugly social housing nearby. Horrible houses, but, being directly on the coast, they had – you’ve guessed it – wonderful views of the sea.
When Her Ladyship said she wanted to stare out at the ocean, she got her wish. Again and again and again.
