Skradinski buk, Krka National Park

We’ve hit the road again, and what a road! Across Istria to Rijeka, then turning south down the Dalmatian coast. Motorway all the way, but if you have to take a motorway, take this one, the A one. I mean, the A1. The views are just lovely. They are particularly spectacular once we exit the Sveti Rok tunnel. We have great views of the coastline bathed in glorious sunshine. Soon afterwards, we spot some snow on the higher peaks in the distance. I love this time of the year. It’s mad.

We are just outside Šibenik and now the fun starts. Finding a campsite in which to plant our enormous caravan proves to be a lot harder than the Oldies had thought. As usual, the Dynamic Duo hadn’t done their homework properly before setting off. The campsites they’re now checking out are all located in the smallish back gardens of houses which, according to Her Ladyship, are practically perched on a ‘cliff-face’. In other words, the roads are a little steep around here. A nervous ninny at the best of times, she’s also freaking out about the fact that these compact campsites are full of pine trees growing at alarming angles. She is adamant that the tiny caravans that are already installed can only have been air-lifted into place, and she’s on the verge of a nervous breakdown as she watches His Lordship manoeuvring our 12.5m long road train into – and back out of – several such campsites.

It’s hilarious!

Three hours later, the entertainment of the day sadly comes to an end, when, by pure fluke, the Oldies manage to find a large, flat campsite with generous-sized pitches just outside Šibenik. Pity.

At least it’s a fair bit quieter. Now that Her Ladyship has finally stopped hyper-ventilating.

Once we get settled in, even Herself starts to relax and enjoy our lovely new location on the coast with a great view of Zlarin, just one of the islands in the Šibenik archipelago. One of our first outings however, believe it or not, is inland. But with good reason. We are visiting Krka National Park, a spectacular area along the valley of the Krka River, the karst landscape chock-a-block with gorges, lakes and waterfalls. This promises to be a real treat. As long as there’s water involved, I’m happy.

Our first visit – no doubt we’ll have to come back as there is so much to see – is to the most popular and perhaps the most dramatic falls, Skradinski buk. The Oldies decided to enter the park from Skradin, where visitors are brought to the falls by boat. What a wonderful approach to a wonderful beauty spot. (There is another entrance at Lozovac, where visitors can take a shuttle bus or walk to the falls.) I can hardly believe it. Her Ladyship is willingly getting on a boat. Life is full of surprises. Then again, the water couldn’t be calmer, so even the Heroine of the High Seas can’t claim any heroics here.

The layout and organisation of the park is excellent and I am pleased to see that the numbers of daily visitors are limited. I firmly believe that there’s a limit to the number of humans that nature can take! A boardwalk and a network of paths and bridges lead us through the whole area, with plenty of spots to stop along the way for a rest, a picnic or just to take in the views. The moist, fragrant atmosphere must be extremely healthy. It’s great to be in a place where simply breathing is good for you.

No brochures or photos can do this place justice. It has to be seen to be believed. Nature pulls out all the stops and puts on a spectacular show. Crevices, cracks, caves, cascades and canyons. Dense forest, lush undergrowth, aquatic plants and wildflowers galore. And the wildlife! The posters en-route warn, I mean, inform about all manner of creatures that inhabit the area, including birds of prey, snakes, jackals, wolves, wild boar, wild cats… gulp! Where’s my Heroine when I need her? … Sorry for the pause there. I just had to get her to check that I was securely strapped into her rucksack.

But those waterfalls! They are the true stars of the show. How to begin to describe them? I’d run out of superlatives in no time. I suppose the best compliment I can give them is to say that they’re just like the ocean. Beautifully blue, green, black, steely grey, turquoise… Masses and masses of water, thundering and roaring, tumbling and falling, foaming and surging, constantly on the move. Yes, exactly like the ocean.

Just switched to ‘fast forward’.