Time to start hitting those famous Portuguese beaches! We’re going west and yet again, alongside the orange and lemon groves, the coast road is full of dilapidated buildings and graffiti. Already from the outskirts however, Lagos looks much better kept. We got hopelessly lost, looking for our Airbnb accommodation and so had a lengthy tour of this lovely coastal town – several times over. The old town centre is typical of the area, with its narrow cobbled streets. At one point, we couldn’t proceed further for several minutes due to the road being completely blocked by an elderly dog and an elderly lady out shopping on her mobility scooter. The shop was so tiny she had to remain parked outside as she chatted with the shopkeeper, whilst the dog stood beside her staring at the wall. Eventually, the dog moved off at a snail’s pace. The elderly woman continued her animated conversation, totally unperturbed as we inched past her.

Incredibly, the local hospital is located in the old town centre, where streets barely wide enough to accommodate our rented Fiat Punto are marked as ambulance routes. I noticed a café directly opposite the accident and emergency department, its tables only a couple of metres from the hospital door. I cringe at the thought of what injuries the punters there might be witness to whilst sipping their espressos or cappuccinos!

The accommodation was worth searching for. We have a room in a beautiful apartment and a balcony with fantastic views of the bay. Breakfast is included and is served in the rooftop breakfast/common room from which the views are even more spectacular. Our host, Fernando, couldn’t be more friendly or helpful and he gives the Oldies plenty of insider tips, including details of local markets, places to visit and places not to visit.

Wine is not my cup of tea, but the Oldies appear to very happy with the local wines and are amazed at the huge choice on offer. They are not at all familiar with Portuguese wines and will have some homework to do when they get home. In the meantime, for want of a better method, they are making their choices according to which labels grab their fancy.

This was my choice:                      but His Lordship insisted on this one:

We spend our days exploring the coast both on foot and by car. I am in heaven and I think the Oldies are pretty happy too. Sinking our toes in fine sand on the beautiful beaches, listening to the sound of the surf, feeling the wind in our feathers/grey hair on the cliff tops, sitting in sheltered coves, soaking up the warm winter sun… I am in love with this country!

It is hard to say which was the most beautiful spot. The beaches in and around Lagos, the islets and caves at the Ponta da Piedade, the harbour at Sagres, the lighthouse on the cliffs at Cabo de São Vicente (the furthest south-western point of mainland Europe) – it is all just gorgeous!

Her Ladyship comes from a seafaring nation. She herself, however, is best described as sea-fearing. She hates boats and is terrified of the high seas, so His Lordship had to employ his best powers of persuasion to get her to come along on a boat trip from Lagos along the coast to the caves at Ponta da Piedade. Only for the fact that Fernando also stuck his oar in, announcing that the day promised the perfect weather conditions for the trip, could Her Ladyship’s resolve never to set a foot on a sea-going vessel be weakened and she reluctantly agreed to go along.

She was visibly shaking as she boarded the boat, but with the sea as smooth as glass, glorious sunshine, 20°C, not a cloud in the sky and no wind, she had nothing to worry about. I, and I suspect His Lordship, would have preferred choppier seas, but then again, at least we didn’t have to hand out the sick bags.

I still feared that Her Ladyship might get a bit green about the gills, but the only green I saw was the water in the caves. Those fish looked so tempting, but His Lordship held me back from attempting a bite, the rotter!

Back on dry land, Her Ladyship insisted that Himself buy her a drink at the marina as a reward for being so brave. Later, I heard of sightings of the Heroine of the High Seas proudly walking homeward along the harbour on her newly acquired, but slightly wobbly, sea legs.